Influence of infragravity waves on the hydrodynamics of beaches

Infragravity waves behavior on three natural beaches were studied. Swash Oscillations were analyzed trough camera systems on an intermediate beach of Sylt, Germany, and a dissipative beach of Cartagena, Colombia. On the intermediate beach, under calm conditions swash spectra was dominated by Sea-Swell energy, by contrast, under storm conditions, swash spectra was dominated by infragravity energy. A different behavior was observed on the dissipative beach, where under calm conditions infragravity energy dominated the swash spectra. Furthermore, different signatures in the swash spectra saturation were found in both beaches. On the other hand, mechanism of infragravity waves generation and evolution of infragravity energy flux were analyzed on a dissipative beach Costa Verde, Ciénaga, by using traditional methods and introducing the Complete Ensemble Empirical Mode Decomposition (CEEMD) method, which was designed to analysis of aperiodic signals from non-linear and non-stationaries systems. CEEMD method proved superiority describing the energy distribution at the IG band. Furthermore, analysis with both methods, suggest that Bound Long Wave (BLW) was the main source of IG energy, showing that BLW release occurred before the Sea-Swell wave breaking. Moreover, seaward and shoreward energy flux variation were analyzed finding that the behavior in the infragravity band was different between lower and higher infragravity periods, also was observed that linear energy fluxes were the main source of infragravity energy.

• Autores: Montaño Muñoz, Jennifer Katherine
• Fecha de publicación: 2015
• Institución: Universidad Nacional de Colombia
• Repositorio: Universidad Nacional de Colombia
• Idioma: spa
• OAI Identifier: oai:repositorio.unal.edu.co:unal/55798
• Acceso en línea: https://repositorio.unal.edu.co/handle/unal/55798; http://bdigital.unal.edu.co/51266/
• Palabra clave: 62 Ingeniería y operaciones afines / Engineering; Infragravity waves; Swash spectra; Complete ensemble; Empirical Mode; Decomposition; Espectro de Swash; Ondas infragravitatorias
• Rights: openAccess
• License: Atribución-NoComercial 4.0 Internacional