Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs

Peláez-Zapata, D.S.; Montoya, R.D., and Osorio, A.F., 2018. Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs. This work presents a numerical study of run-up oscillations over a typical fringing reef profile at the laboratory scale. The nonhydrostatic SWASH model was calibrated and validate...

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2018
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Universidad de Medellín
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Repositorio UDEM
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eng
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oai:repository.udem.edu.co:11407/4883
Acceso en línea:
http://hdl.handle.net/11407/4883
Palabra clave:
numerical modeling
run-up spectrum
SWASH model
Wave run-up
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id REPOUDEM2_3d059b320bbfc49dd818336d7abda45c
oai_identifier_str oai:repository.udem.edu.co:11407/4883
network_acronym_str REPOUDEM2
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dc.title.spa.fl_str_mv Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs
title Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs
spellingShingle Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs
numerical modeling
run-up spectrum
SWASH model
Wave run-up
title_short Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs
title_full Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs
title_fullStr Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs
title_full_unstemmed Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs
title_sort Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs
dc.contributor.affiliation.spa.fl_str_mv Peláez-Zapata, D.S., Universidad Nacional de Colombia;Montoya, R.D., Universidad Nacional de Colombia; Universidad de Medellín;Osorio, A.F., Universidad Nacional de Colombia
dc.subject.spa.fl_str_mv numerical modeling
run-up spectrum
SWASH model
Wave run-up
topic numerical modeling
run-up spectrum
SWASH model
Wave run-up
description Peláez-Zapata, D.S.; Montoya, R.D., and Osorio, A.F., 2018. Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs. This work presents a numerical study of run-up oscillations over a typical fringing reef profile at the laboratory scale. The nonhydrostatic SWASH model was calibrated and validated using experimental data of free surface elevation for eight gauges and run-up oscillations. The model shows a high sensitivity to variations in the parameters of bottom friction and horizontal mixing length. A process of calibration found the optimal values to be 0.014 s m-1/3 and 0.01 m, respectively. With these values, the model is good at reproducing bulk run-up parameters such as the mean run-up period (r2 = 0.93), sea-swell significant run-up (r2 = 0.93), and infragravity significant run-up (r2 = 0.88). The ratio between the infragravity and sea-swell run-up is highly dependent on the surf similarity parameter. For dissipative and intermediate conditions, the run-up is mainly dominated by low-frequency or infragravity oscillations, whereas for reflective conditions, high-frequency or sea-swell oscillations become more important. The results show that the run-up spectrum at high frequencies is proportional to f-4. The energy level at high frequencies is apparently independent of the offshore wave conditions and the width of the reef flat. However, the depth of the reef crest seems to be the most influential variable on the high-frequency energy. A parametric equation that depends on both the energy level at high frequency and a function of the run-up period was obtained to analyze the spectral characteristics of the wave run-up. This equation can be considered a first approach to a general parameterization of the run-up spectrum for reef zones, which can be useful in coastal engineering applications, such as predicting both the run-up height and frequency, spectral response of sediment transport in the swash zone, and coupling with spectral wave models. © Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. 2018.
publishDate 2018
dc.date.accessioned.none.fl_str_mv 2018-10-31T13:44:21Z
dc.date.available.none.fl_str_mv 2018-10-31T13:44:21Z
dc.date.created.none.fl_str_mv 2018
dc.type.eng.fl_str_mv Article
dc.type.coarversion.fl_str_mv http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
dc.type.coar.fl_str_mv http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_2df8fbb1
dc.type.driver.none.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
dc.identifier.issn.none.fl_str_mv 7490208
dc.identifier.uri.none.fl_str_mv http://hdl.handle.net/11407/4883
dc.identifier.doi.none.fl_str_mv 10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-17-00057.1
identifier_str_mv 7490208
10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-17-00057.1
url http://hdl.handle.net/11407/4883
dc.language.iso.none.fl_str_mv eng
language eng
dc.relation.isversionof.spa.fl_str_mv https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85046125900&doi=10.2112%2fJCOASTRES-D-17-00057.1&partnerID=40&md5=6e8c0058d85a7de263b57ea364a592cd
dc.relation.citationvolume.spa.fl_str_mv 34
dc.relation.citationissue.spa.fl_str_mv 5
dc.relation.citationstartpage.spa.fl_str_mv 1065
dc.relation.citationendpage.spa.fl_str_mv 1079
dc.relation.ispartofes.spa.fl_str_mv Journal of Coastal Research
dc.relation.references.spa.fl_str_mv Bai, Y., Cheung, K.F., Dispersion and nonlinearity of multilayer non-hydrostatic free-surface flow (2013) Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 726, pp. 226-260;Baldock, T., Holmes, P., Horn, D., Low frequency swash motion induced by wave grouping (1997) Coastal Engineering, 32 (2-3), pp. 197-222;Bergstra, J., Bengio, Y., Random search for hyperparameter optimization (2012) Journal of Machine Learning Research, 13 (1), pp. 281-305;Brinkkemper, J., Torres-Freyermuth, A., Mendoza, E., Ruessink, B., Parametrization of wave run-up on beaches in Yucatan, México: A numerical study (2013) Coastal Dynamics 2013, pp. 225-234. , (Arachon, France);Buddemeier, R.W., Kleypas, J.A., Aronson, R.B., (2004) Coral Reefs and Global Climate Change: Potential Contributions of Climate Change to Stresses on Coral Reef Ecosystems, p. 44. , Arlington, Virginia: Pew Center on Global Climate Change;Cox, N., Dunkin, L.M., Irish, J.L., An empirical model for infragravity swash on barred beaches (2013) Coastal Engineering, 81, pp. 44-50;Dalrymple, R., Rogers, B., Numerical modeling of water waves with the SPH method (2006) Coastal Engineering, 53 (2), pp. 141-147;Demirbilek, Z., Nwogu, O., (2007) Boussinesq Modeling of Wave Propagation and Runup over Fringing Coral Reefs, Model Evaluation Report, p. 113. , Washington, D.C.: U.S. Army Corp of Engineers/Engineer Research and Development Center/Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory;Demirbilek, Z., Nwogu, O., Ward, D.L., (2007) Laboratory Study of Wind Effect on Runup over Fringing Reefs, p. 83. , Washington, D.C.: U.S. Army Corp of Engineers/Engineer Research and Development Center/Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory;Demirbilek, Z., Nwogu, O., Ward, D.L., Sa?chez, A., (2009) Wave Transformation over Reefs: Evaluation of One-Dimensional Numerical Models, p. 208. , Washington, D.C.: U.S. Army Corp of Engineers/Engineer Research and Development Center/Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory;Duarte, C.M., Losada, I.J., Hendriks, I.E., Mazarrasa, I., Marbà, N., The role of coastal plant communities for climate change mitigation and adaptation (2013) Nature Climate Change, 3 (11), pp. 961-968;Ferrario, F., Beck, M.W., Storlazzi, C.D., Micheli, F., Shepard, C.C., Airoldi, L., The effectiveness of coral reefs for coastal hazard risk reduction and adaptation (2014) Nature Communications, 5. , Article 3794;Guedes, R.M.C., Bryan, K.R., Coco, G., Observations of wave energy fluxes and swash motions on a low-sloping, dissipative beach (2013) Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 118 (7), pp. 3651-3669;Guza, R.T., Feddersen, F., Effect of wave frequency and directional spread on shoreline runup (2012) Geophysical Research Letters, 39 (11);Hasselmann, K., On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravitywave spectrum. Part 1 (1962) Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 12 (4), pp. 481-500;Holman, R.A., Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach (1986) Coastal Engineering, 9 (6), pp. 527-544;Holman, R.A., Sallenger, A.H., Setup and swash on a natural beach (1985) Journal of Geophysical Research, 90 (C1), pp. 945-953;Hughes, M.G., Aagaard, T., Baldock, T.E., Power, H.E., Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches (2014) Marine Geology, 355, pp. 88-97;Hughes, S.A., Estimation of wave run-up on smooth, impermeable slopes using the wave momentum flux parameter (2004) Coastal Engineering, 51 (11), pp. 1085-1104;Hunt, I., Design of seawalls and breakwater (1959) Journal of Waterways and Harbours Division, 126 (4), pp. 123-152;Huntley, D.A., Guza, R.T., Bowen, A.J., A universal form for shoreline run-up spectra? (1977) Journal of Geophysical Research, 82 (18), p. 2577;Iribarren-Cavanilles, M.R., Castro-Nogales, M., (1949) Protection des Ports, pp. 180-193. , Brussels, Belgium: PIANC Congress SII-C4 Hydraulic Engineering Reports;Kolda, T.G., Lewis, R.M., Torczon, V., Optimization by direct search: New perspectives on some classical and modern methods (2003) SIAM Review, 45 (3), pp. 385-482;Lewis, M., Schumann, G., Bates, P., Horsburgh, K., Understanding the variability of an extreme storm tide along a coastline (2013) Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 123, pp. 19-25;Lewis, R.R., Ecological engineering for successful management and restoration of mangrove forests (2005) Ecological Engineering, 24 (4), pp. 403-418;Longuet-Higgins, M.S., Stewart, R.W., Changes in the form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents (1960) Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 8 (4), pp. 565-583;Lugo-Ferna?dez, A., Roberts, H.H., Suhayda, J.N., Wave transformations across a Caribbean fringing-barrier coral reef (1998) Continental Shelf Research, 18 (10), pp. 1099-1124;Ma, G., Su, S.F., Liu, S., Chu, J.C., Numerical simulation of infragravity waves in fringing reefs using a shock-capturing nonhydrostatic model (2014) Ocean Engineering, 85, pp. 54-64;Mase, H., Spectral characteristics of random wave run-up (1988) Coastal Engineering, 12 (2), pp. 175-189;Monismith, S.G., Hydrodynamics of coral reefs (2007) Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 39, pp. 37-55;Nielsen, P., Hanslow, D.J., Wave runup distributions on natural beaches (1991) Journal of Coastal Research, 7 (4), pp. 1139-1152;Nwogu, O., Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation (1993) Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 119 (6), pp. 618-638;Ochi, M.K., (1998) Ocean Waves: The Stochastic Approach, p. 331. , New York: Cambridge University Press;Osorio-Cano, J.D., Osorio, A.F., Pelaéz-Zapata, D.S., Ecosystem management tools to study natural habitats as wave damping structures and coastal protection mechanisms (2017) Ecological Engineering;Péquignet, A.C.N., Becker, J.M., Merrifield, M.A., Aucan, J., Forcing of resonant modes on a fringing reef during tropical storm Man-Yi (2009) Geophysical Research Letters, 36 (3);Péquignet, A.C.N., Becker, J.M., Merrifield, M.A., Boc, S.J., The dissipation of wind wave energy across a fringing reef at Ipan, Guam (2011) Coral Reefs, 30 (1), pp. 71-82;Peregrine, D.H., Long waves on a beach (1967) Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 27 (4), pp. 815-827;Pomeroy, A., Lowe, R., Symonds, G., Van Dongeren, A., Moore, C., The dynamics of infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef (2012) Journal of Geophysical Research, 117, p. C11022;Quataert, E., Storlazzi, C., Rooijen, A., Cheriton, O., Van Dongeren, A., The influence of coral reefs and climate change on wave-driven flooding of tropical coastlines (2015) Geophysical Research Letters, 42 (15), pp. 6407-6415;Rijnsdorp, D.P., (2011) Numerical Modelling of Infragravity Waves in Coastal Regions, p. 111. , Delft, The Netherlands: TU Delft, Master's thesis;Rijnsdorp, D.P., Smit, P.B., Zijlema, M., Non-hydrostatic modelling of infragravity waves under laboratory conditions (2014) Coastal Engineering, 85, pp. 30-42;Roeber, V., Bricker, J.D., Destructive tsunami-like wave generated by surf beat over a coral reef during Typhoon Haiyan (2015) Nature Communications, 6, p. 7854;Ruggiero, P., Holman, R.A., Beach, R.A., Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach (2004) Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 109 (C6), p. C06025;Ruggiero, P., Komar, P.D., McDougal, W.G., Marra, J.J., Beach, R.A., Wave run-up, extreme water levels and the erosion of properties backing beaches (2001) Journal of Coastal Research, 17 (2), pp. 407-419;Ruiz De Alegría-Arzaburu, A., Mariño-Tapia, I., Enriquez, C., Silva-Casarín, R., González-Leija, M., Morphodynamics of a Caribbean beach fringed by a coral reef (2012) Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 33, pp. 2-10;Ruju, A., Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., Radiation stress and lowfrequency energy balance within the surf zone: A numerical approach (2012) Coastal Engineering, 68, pp. 44-55;Ruju, A., Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., Numerical analysis of run-up oscillations under dissipative conditions (2014) Coastal Engineering, 86, pp. 45-56;Senechal, N., Coco, G., Bryan, K.R., Holman, R., Wave runup during extreme storm conditions (2011) Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 116 (C7);Sheremet, A., Kaihatu, J.M., Su, S.F., Smith, E.R., Smith, J.M., Modeling of nonlinear wave propagation over fringing reefs (2011) Coastal Engineering, 58, pp. 1125-1137;Silva, R., Lithgow, D., Esteves, L.S., Martínez, M.L., Moreno-Casasola, P., Martell, R., Pereira, P., Rivillas, G.D., Coastal risk mitigation by green infrastructure in Latin America (2017) Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers-Maritime Engineering, 170 (1), pp. 39-54. , 06.007;Smit, P., Janssen, T., Holthuijsen, L., Smith, J., Nonhydrostatic modeling of surf zone wave dynamics (2014) Coastal Engineering, 83, pp. 36-48;Smit, P., Zijlema, M., Stelling, G., Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model (2013) Coastal Engineering, 76, pp. 1-16;Stelling, G., Zijlema, M., An accurate and efficient finitedifference algorithm for non-hydrostatic free-surface flow with application to wave propagation (2003) International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, 43 (1), pp. 1-23;Stockdon, H.F., Holman, R.A., Howd, P.A., Sallenger, A.H., Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup (2006) Coastal Engineering, 53 (7), pp. 573-588;Stockdon, H.F., Thompson, D.M., Plant, N.G., Long, J.W., Evaluation of wave runup predictions from numerical and parametric models (2014) Coastal Engineering, 92, pp. 1-11;Storlazzi, C., Brown, E.K., Field, M.E., Rodgers, K., Jokiel, P.L., A model for wave control on coral breakage and species distribution in the Hawaiian Islands (2005) Coral Reefs, 24 (1), pp. 43-55;Torres-Freyermuth, A., Mariño-Tapia, I., Coronado, C., Salles, P., Medellín, G., Pedrozo-Acuña, A., Silva, R., Iglesias-Prieto, R., Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon (2012) Natural Hazards and Earth System Science, 12, pp. 3765-3773;Van Dongeren, A., Lowe, R., Pomeroy, A., Trang, D.M., Roelvink, D., Symonds, G., Ranasinghe, R., Numerical modeling of low-frequency wave dynamics over a fringing coral reef (2013) Coastal Engineering, 73, pp. 178-190;Willmott, C.J., On the validation of models (1981) Journal of Physical Geography, 2 (2), pp. 184-194;Willmott, C.J., Ackleson, S.G., Davis, R.E., Feddema, J.J., Klink, K.M., Legates, D.R., O'Donnell, J., Rowe, C.M., Statistics for the evaluation and comparison of models (1985) Journal of Geophysical Research, 90 (C5), pp. 8995-9005;Willmott, C.J., Robeson, S.M., Matsuura, K., A refined index of model performance (2012) International Journal of Climatology, 32 (13), pp. 2088-2094;Yamazaki, Y., Kowalik, Z., Cheung, K.F., Depth-integrated, non-hydrostatic model for wave breaking and run-up (2009) International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, 61 (5), pp. 473-497;Young, I.R., Wave transformation over coral reefs (1989) Journal of Geophysical Research, 94 (C7), pp. 9779-9789;Zijlema, M., Modelling wave transformation across a fringing reef using SWASH (2012) Proceedings of the 33rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2012, pp. 1-12. , (Santander, Spain, Coastal Engineering Research Council);Zijlema, M., Stelling, G.S., Efficient computation of surf zone waves using the nonlinear shallow water equations with nonhydrostatic pressure (2008) Coastal Engineering, 55 (10), pp. 780-790;Zijlema, M., Stelling, G., Smit, P., SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters (2011) Coastal Engineering, 58 (10), pp. 992-1012
dc.rights.coar.fl_str_mv http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_16ec
rights_invalid_str_mv http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_16ec
dc.publisher.spa.fl_str_mv Coastal Education Research Foundation Inc.
dc.publisher.program.spa.fl_str_mv Ingeniería Civil
dc.publisher.faculty.spa.fl_str_mv Facultad de Ingenierías
dc.source.spa.fl_str_mv Scopus
institution Universidad de Medellín
repository.name.fl_str_mv Repositorio Institucional Universidad de Medellin
repository.mail.fl_str_mv repositorio@udem.edu.co
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spelling 2018-10-31T13:44:21Z2018-10-31T13:44:21Z20187490208http://hdl.handle.net/11407/488310.2112/JCOASTRES-D-17-00057.1Peláez-Zapata, D.S.; Montoya, R.D., and Osorio, A.F., 2018. Numerical study of run-up oscillations over fringing reefs. This work presents a numerical study of run-up oscillations over a typical fringing reef profile at the laboratory scale. The nonhydrostatic SWASH model was calibrated and validated using experimental data of free surface elevation for eight gauges and run-up oscillations. The model shows a high sensitivity to variations in the parameters of bottom friction and horizontal mixing length. A process of calibration found the optimal values to be 0.014 s m-1/3 and 0.01 m, respectively. With these values, the model is good at reproducing bulk run-up parameters such as the mean run-up period (r2 = 0.93), sea-swell significant run-up (r2 = 0.93), and infragravity significant run-up (r2 = 0.88). The ratio between the infragravity and sea-swell run-up is highly dependent on the surf similarity parameter. For dissipative and intermediate conditions, the run-up is mainly dominated by low-frequency or infragravity oscillations, whereas for reflective conditions, high-frequency or sea-swell oscillations become more important. The results show that the run-up spectrum at high frequencies is proportional to f-4. The energy level at high frequencies is apparently independent of the offshore wave conditions and the width of the reef flat. However, the depth of the reef crest seems to be the most influential variable on the high-frequency energy. A parametric equation that depends on both the energy level at high frequency and a function of the run-up period was obtained to analyze the spectral characteristics of the wave run-up. This equation can be considered a first approach to a general parameterization of the run-up spectrum for reef zones, which can be useful in coastal engineering applications, such as predicting both the run-up height and frequency, spectral response of sediment transport in the swash zone, and coupling with spectral wave models. © Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. 2018.engCoastal Education Research Foundation Inc.Ingeniería CivilFacultad de Ingenieríashttps://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85046125900&doi=10.2112%2fJCOASTRES-D-17-00057.1&partnerID=40&md5=6e8c0058d85a7de263b57ea364a592cd34510651079Journal of Coastal ResearchBai, Y., Cheung, K.F., Dispersion and nonlinearity of multilayer non-hydrostatic free-surface flow (2013) Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 726, pp. 226-260;Baldock, T., Holmes, P., Horn, D., Low frequency swash motion induced by wave grouping (1997) Coastal Engineering, 32 (2-3), pp. 197-222;Bergstra, J., Bengio, Y., Random search for hyperparameter optimization (2012) Journal of Machine Learning Research, 13 (1), pp. 281-305;Brinkkemper, J., Torres-Freyermuth, A., Mendoza, E., Ruessink, B., Parametrization of wave run-up on beaches in Yucatan, México: A numerical study (2013) Coastal Dynamics 2013, pp. 225-234. , (Arachon, France);Buddemeier, R.W., Kleypas, J.A., Aronson, R.B., (2004) Coral Reefs and Global Climate Change: Potential Contributions of Climate Change to Stresses on Coral Reef Ecosystems, p. 44. , Arlington, Virginia: Pew Center on Global Climate Change;Cox, N., Dunkin, L.M., Irish, J.L., An empirical model for infragravity swash on barred beaches (2013) Coastal Engineering, 81, pp. 44-50;Dalrymple, R., Rogers, B., Numerical modeling of water waves with the SPH method (2006) Coastal Engineering, 53 (2), pp. 141-147;Demirbilek, Z., Nwogu, O., (2007) Boussinesq Modeling of Wave Propagation and Runup over Fringing Coral Reefs, Model Evaluation Report, p. 113. , Washington, D.C.: U.S. Army Corp of Engineers/Engineer Research and Development Center/Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory;Demirbilek, Z., Nwogu, O., Ward, D.L., (2007) Laboratory Study of Wind Effect on Runup over Fringing Reefs, p. 83. , Washington, D.C.: U.S. Army Corp of Engineers/Engineer Research and Development Center/Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory;Demirbilek, Z., Nwogu, O., Ward, D.L., Sa?chez, A., (2009) Wave Transformation over Reefs: Evaluation of One-Dimensional Numerical Models, p. 208. , Washington, D.C.: U.S. Army Corp of Engineers/Engineer Research and Development Center/Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory;Duarte, C.M., Losada, I.J., Hendriks, I.E., Mazarrasa, I., Marbà, N., The role of coastal plant communities for climate change mitigation and adaptation (2013) Nature Climate Change, 3 (11), pp. 961-968;Ferrario, F., Beck, M.W., Storlazzi, C.D., Micheli, F., Shepard, C.C., Airoldi, L., The effectiveness of coral reefs for coastal hazard risk reduction and adaptation (2014) Nature Communications, 5. , Article 3794;Guedes, R.M.C., Bryan, K.R., Coco, G., Observations of wave energy fluxes and swash motions on a low-sloping, dissipative beach (2013) Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 118 (7), pp. 3651-3669;Guza, R.T., Feddersen, F., Effect of wave frequency and directional spread on shoreline runup (2012) Geophysical Research Letters, 39 (11);Hasselmann, K., On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravitywave spectrum. Part 1 (1962) Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 12 (4), pp. 481-500;Holman, R.A., Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach (1986) Coastal Engineering, 9 (6), pp. 527-544;Holman, R.A., Sallenger, A.H., Setup and swash on a natural beach (1985) Journal of Geophysical Research, 90 (C1), pp. 945-953;Hughes, M.G., Aagaard, T., Baldock, T.E., Power, H.E., Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches (2014) Marine Geology, 355, pp. 88-97;Hughes, S.A., Estimation of wave run-up on smooth, impermeable slopes using the wave momentum flux parameter (2004) Coastal Engineering, 51 (11), pp. 1085-1104;Hunt, I., Design of seawalls and breakwater (1959) Journal of Waterways and Harbours Division, 126 (4), pp. 123-152;Huntley, D.A., Guza, R.T., Bowen, A.J., A universal form for shoreline run-up spectra? (1977) Journal of Geophysical Research, 82 (18), p. 2577;Iribarren-Cavanilles, M.R., Castro-Nogales, M., (1949) Protection des Ports, pp. 180-193. , Brussels, Belgium: PIANC Congress SII-C4 Hydraulic Engineering Reports;Kolda, T.G., Lewis, R.M., Torczon, V., Optimization by direct search: New perspectives on some classical and modern methods (2003) SIAM Review, 45 (3), pp. 385-482;Lewis, M., Schumann, G., Bates, P., Horsburgh, K., Understanding the variability of an extreme storm tide along a coastline (2013) Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 123, pp. 19-25;Lewis, R.R., Ecological engineering for successful management and restoration of mangrove forests (2005) Ecological Engineering, 24 (4), pp. 403-418;Longuet-Higgins, M.S., Stewart, R.W., Changes in the form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents (1960) Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 8 (4), pp. 565-583;Lugo-Ferna?dez, A., Roberts, H.H., Suhayda, J.N., Wave transformations across a Caribbean fringing-barrier coral reef (1998) Continental Shelf Research, 18 (10), pp. 1099-1124;Ma, G., Su, S.F., Liu, S., Chu, J.C., Numerical simulation of infragravity waves in fringing reefs using a shock-capturing nonhydrostatic model (2014) Ocean Engineering, 85, pp. 54-64;Mase, H., Spectral characteristics of random wave run-up (1988) Coastal Engineering, 12 (2), pp. 175-189;Monismith, S.G., Hydrodynamics of coral reefs (2007) Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 39, pp. 37-55;Nielsen, P., Hanslow, D.J., Wave runup distributions on natural beaches (1991) Journal of Coastal Research, 7 (4), pp. 1139-1152;Nwogu, O., Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation (1993) Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 119 (6), pp. 618-638;Ochi, M.K., (1998) Ocean Waves: The Stochastic Approach, p. 331. , New York: Cambridge University Press;Osorio-Cano, J.D., Osorio, A.F., Pelaéz-Zapata, D.S., Ecosystem management tools to study natural habitats as wave damping structures and coastal protection mechanisms (2017) Ecological Engineering;Péquignet, A.C.N., Becker, J.M., Merrifield, M.A., Aucan, J., Forcing of resonant modes on a fringing reef during tropical storm Man-Yi (2009) Geophysical Research Letters, 36 (3);Péquignet, A.C.N., Becker, J.M., Merrifield, M.A., Boc, S.J., The dissipation of wind wave energy across a fringing reef at Ipan, Guam (2011) Coral Reefs, 30 (1), pp. 71-82;Peregrine, D.H., Long waves on a beach (1967) Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 27 (4), pp. 815-827;Pomeroy, A., Lowe, R., Symonds, G., Van Dongeren, A., Moore, C., The dynamics of infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef (2012) Journal of Geophysical Research, 117, p. 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Universidad de Medellín;Osorio, A.F., Universidad Nacional de ColombiaPeláez-Zapata D.S.Montoya R.D.Osorio A.F.http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_16ec11407/4883oai:repository.udem.edu.co:11407/48832020-05-27 16:35:12.879Repositorio Institucional Universidad de Medellinrepositorio@udem.edu.co

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